Day Twelve: Todos Santos!

Mister was up several times during the night, feeling miserable - pobrecito! He finally fell into a deep sleep, just in time for everyone else to wake up. Lionel went to the store to pick up some essentials - coffee! And he returned with fresh corn tortillas, still warm! Ah, the beauty of Mexico once again...even the corner market has fresh homemade tortillas!!


Mister slept for another hour or so more, then we had breakfast of chorizo, eggs and potatoes. Today we are going to look at a property that Lionel has had his eye on for quite some time. In is located just north of town, and it was originally $275,000 USD for 316 acres, but has dropped as of late to $125,000. He decided to ask about it at the realtor's office to get the scoop, as well as directions. The only problem, the realtor said, was that there was a squatter on 2 acres and that they had been unsuccessful on moving her. We were sure that an old lady in a shack wouldn't be too much trouble, and if we liked the property, we could work something out.

The above picture is of a "flat cow" we found along the way. And Lionel is toasting to the "Maestro". It is a Baja 1000 tradition.

Armed with a map and directions, we set out. The drive was a gorgeous tour through many thriving examples of indigenous flora. Several small ranches, cattle farms, and even a tiny village were plopped down this dirt road along the way. We chatted with a gentleman tending his beautiful garden, in awe of the pristine location, and then...we found the property.

Two abandoned homes mark the entrance. One was completely collapsed, full of the personal effects of the former resident, including a gorgeous hand carved bedframe. If we had had the space, I would have taken the headboard with us, for sure. The other house was empty, with no signs of use in a very long time, but it was livable, and locked up tightly. At least the bedroom and living areas were. The kitchen was open on one side and full of pots, pans, and an old propane stove...all still appeared to be in working order, although covered in dirt and dust. The living space/bedroom area was neat and tidy...beds made, stuffed animal on the pillow...as though the residents would be right back. But no one had been here in ages. I wonder what happened to them?
We hike our way down a path to the water - water! Yes, water flows, and by appearances, often gushes through this part of the property. This is important in Baja, well, anywhere really, access to water. The fruit trees are thriving - grapefruit, figs, oranges, mangoes, and a few others we were unable to identify. This would make a lovely retreat.


We explore further, wondering where the old lady's shack is and how we would be able to work with her, around her. We pile back into the car to drive further up the property, hoping to find the small waterfall that was pictured on the MLS listing. Instead we find the old lady's "shack"...all seven houses, multiple animal corrals, cattle, chickens, goats, and multiple families!!!
The "little problem" was not just a little old lady squatting in a shack on the creek, this was a thriving community. They aren't going anywhere! And no one is going to make them.

The picture below is a family we met after we left the property. We do not know if they are part of the family that lives there. They were kind enough to pose for a photo.


Oh well - to the beach we go- vamos a la playa!!

Above is Sis in the surf shop, El Diablo Blanco. Below is Mist, obviously enjoying the beach!


We head to Playa Cerritos - once a "secret" surf spot - now flanked by hotels and even two surf shops. The kids and the mutts splash and play, enjoying the last of the day before heading back to the hotel for dinner. Tonight's menu, grilled lobster with chayote squash, onions and corn tortillas. The kids and I cool off in the pool while Lionel makes dinner, then we eat and ZZZZZZZZZZZ!

Day Eleven: La Paz to Todos Santos!

We were up before sunrise today. Mister is looking really rough. He woke up screaming, crying, and coughing, unable to open his eyes. They were both glued shut with the icky greenish goo. We decide not to waste anymore time...it is evident that this irritation is not just from the sand; something else is going on. We decide that he should see a pediatrician, and since we are in a large city, it should be relatively easy to find one. One thing to note, though, about Baja: even in the small communities there is a plethora of medical options. It all depends on whether you want private care or social care. Now, Tristan is eligible for either, since he is a Mexican national ~ one of the benefits to this is the free health care. But, we figured if we could find a private physician near the hotel, we would go there first. Even private health care is relatively affordable in Mexico. We look through the phone book and locate a pediatrician only a few blocks from the hotel, and, bonus! his phone book ad says that he speaks English. Granted, this isn't necessary, but it does make it somewhat easier. The office opens at 10, so we have some time to kill.

We watch a little TV; Sis enjoys the Backyardigans, Miss Spider, and Lazytown in Espanol (to be honest, so do I ~ it's a very entertaining way to learn Spanish. In fact, I'm thinking we need to buy some of her shows in Spanish!). Then, we head down for some breakfast in La Terraza. Breakfast: Molletes (the correct version - not what they had served us at Serenidad!) thick crusty French bread spread with refried beans, one topped with with egg and cheese, one topped with chorizo and cheese, and one topped with ham and cheese ~ delicious! and of course, pancakes for the kids.

We then set out to find a spot to let the dogs out to run for a bit, then to find the pediatrician and get the Mist all fixed up. We find the office tucked along a tree lined street just off of the downtown corridor. The doctor will be in in about an hour, so we wait (as Mist is sleeping, anyway) enjoying the shade and a cappuccino from Cafe-Tizo. There are also lots of flowers to look at and pick :)

When the doctor arrives, he gives Tristan a thorough examination, and concludes that he indeed has an infection. His throat is raw and inflamed, and he has a slight ear infection that is causing the nose and eyes to weep and drain. Doctor Fones also checked out Sis, who had been coughing a bit as well, and determined that she too, had a minor infection, although not as severe as the Mist. he gave us prescriptions for them both. The consult was $500 pesos for both of them - $40 USD.

At the farmacia, Lionel picks up the medications. Motrin - for inflammation, pain, and fever reduction, for both. Cefixima - an antibiotic, for Mist. Neosporin eye drops, for Mist. Sensibit - a respiratory expectorant, for both. The total for the prescriptions was $1237.50 pesos - $99 USD, but we are talking about filling 6 prescriptions without insurance. Not bad. Luckily, Mist is a true trooper and quick with a smile, even though he obviously feels like crap.

Next, we go back to the hotel, quickly pack up our things and get on the road to Todos Santos by 1:35 pm. The drive to Todos Santos is uneventful, but as we begin to get closer to the Pacific Coast, the air feels more humid and the temperature is milder. The closer we get, the more tropical it feels and looks. Palm trees begin to dot the landscape along with lush farms. We stop to buy a giant bouquet of fresh flowers at a roadside stand for $50 pesos - $4 USD.


Todos Santos is a charming town, built primarily around the sugarcane mills and farms in the 1800's. It's heyday as the sugarcane capital of Baja lasted until the 1950's and then the town all but died until the late 1980's when the highway Mexico 19 was paved, allowing tourism to flourish. It is now an artist's retreat and a haven of rest for retirees, and organic farmers alike. The streets are lined with old buildings that have been given new lives as galleries, restaurants, cafes, stores, and hotels. Even the Hotel California (fabled to be the one in the Eagles' song, but that is just a myth - of course, this doesn't hurt the popularity of the hotel one bit) is here along the pedestrian friendly historic district.

But, before we hit the district, it's time to hit the beach! We grab some carnitas (yum! Love Todos Santos already...carnitas EVERY day except Tuesday!!)and follow the road out of town to the beautiful, surfable beach of La Pastora. Everyone, including the mutts, enjoyed the beach romp. As the sun began to make it's descent, we decide to find our hotel for the night.

Our first choice, the Hacienda Inn, was no longer open, so we moved on to our second choice, the Hotel Santa Rosa. We book their last available room, #6, a studio apartment with full kitchen, overlooking the courtyard and pool for $650 pesos a night. We quickly make friends with the other guests, have a quick dinner of leftover carnitas, and attempt a late night pool dip. But the kids are just too tired, and come to think of it, so are we! A whooping 52 miles driven today! Buenes Noches!