A Travel Blog Detailing the Journeys and Adventures of the bajafam.

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Day Six: Guerrero Negro to Laguna San Ignacio!


We were up this morning at 6:00 am, refreshed and ready to start a new day ~ with the possibility of seeing more whales tomorrow morning! We went down to breakfast early, around 7:30, and chatted with some of the other guests over coffee. Breakfast this morning: Sirloin Tips with Huevos Estrellado, Chorizo with Huevos, and, you guessed it, pancakes! Another fantastic meal at Malarrimo's. We return to our room to pack up, then walk the doggies and off we go! On the road again at 11:30.

The drive from Guerrero Negro to San Ignacio is pretty uneventful, but the arrival in the desert oasis is amazing! As the town of San Ignacio comes into view, you can see palm trees springing up across the landscape. The flora changes rapidly as we drop down into the valley. The palm lined river is absolutely amazing! Precious, perfect water flowing in the middle of the desert! No wonder the missionaries chose this place to construct their mission.


We drive into the center of town, find a shady place to park, and wander around, enjoying the cool breezes and shade of the tree filled park. To the right of the park is the San Ignacio Mission, one of the best preserved mission sites in Baja. It was constructed from 1740-1786, and is built from hand carved stone blocks and local wood for the beams and doors. It is a beautiful structure, and still very much in use. We enter through the massive stone doors and are greeted by a stunning gold-plated altar flanked by oil paintings of several saints. On each side of mission are two more altars, equally beautiful, although not as large. There is a peacefulness to this old building that settles into your soul.


We then continue our stroll through town, stopping to purchase some local datils (dates) and pay de datil...date cake that is to die for! The schools were letting out, and the schoolchildren were coming home from school. One young lady was particularly enchanted by Mister and scooped him up to take him to her house and show him to her abuela. Abuela was gracious enough to invite us into her home, all the while gushing over our "gueritos". We came across the office of Kuyima, one of the whale watching tours/resorts along Laguna San Ignacio, and we inquired about the possibility of camping at their compound and getting a tour in the morning. They gave us all the information we needed on how to find the camp, and we were off. Whale watching in the morning! Yippee!

We purchased some grocery items, then set out on the 60 km dirt road to the Laguna San Ignacio and Campo Kuyima for the noche. As we came up to Kuyima, we were struck by how pristine it was. The campsites were all laid out and the entire area was as clean as can be. Kuyima is amazing! It is an eco-tourism camp with cabanas, tents, and campsites, all on a small carbon footprint - solar, wind, and composting toilets. Paolo and Paloma greet us and show us to our site, and reserve a spot for us for dinner in the dining palapa at 7:00. Sis, Mister, the mutts and I go for a sunset walk as Lionel unties the camping gear and begins to get us set up for the night. Fernando, another host from Kuyima, comes to help Lionel, as dinner is being served and he doesn't want us to miss the meal.

Dinner: grilled fish with garlic butter, rice, and a lovely green salad, Pacificos and chocolate milk. Our dinner companions, Omar and Leslie and their gorgeous son, Ocean, who is 3 1/2. They are in from Rosarito Beach, traveling by bus! The kids all have a blast playing together on the sandy palapa floor, while the adults enjoy conversation over a beer or two.

Then, its time to head out into the wind to get ready for bed. The wind is blowing furiously, and Sis and Mist are not happy about it. They are both frightened by the flapping and shaking of the tent, and it is difficult to get them to settle down. This is also the first night camping, and Sis is not too thrilled with the idea of sleeping on the floor in her sleeping bag. Once they finally settle down, they are out! With 123 miles driven today, and all of the sights of the river, and a delicious meal in our tummies, we settle in for some shut-eye. With visions of ballenas dancing, or swimming, in our heads, we fall asleep.

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